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Mokume shibori

Antique hemp table runner indigo mukume shibori

I love this pattern, it’s irregular regularity and strong contrast. Every line is made by squeezing the fabric in small folds. Those folds are created by small stitches running perpendicular to the lines. A very long process, but once the rhythm is found, I love the meditative aspect. I trained in shibori creations with Kuno Hiroaki of Kuno Studio, thanks to Harumi at  Couleur Garance and  Tinctoria. Learning the best practice for both hadn’t movements and knot making has provided invaluable. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Q_n_HMRa_-4 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bjKfhX_01FY

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Tegumo shibori

Tegumo shibori on grey cedar

Tegumo shibori is a type of tied resist developed in Arimatsu, Japan, where I had the chance of training with master Kuno-san from Kuno Studio (see blogpost in process here) During the Edo period, the busy Tokaido route saw the flourishing of trade. Arimatsu’s specialty was Yukata fabric, and the cotton was predominantly dyed in indigo, with various shibori patterns. Please check the «Sur la route du Tokaido» blogpost for Hiroshige’s etchings of the route, with beautiful illustration of many shibori patterns. A few pictures and a video of the tegumo shibori process of tying a series of cones, which once, untied after dyeing, reveal a rhythmical yet always different pattern. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2onyhyX2pbI

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Upcycling

Indigo shibori up cycled garnements

It all started as a whim, a wish to cover up a stain on an old favourite linen skirt… and it ended up being a great idea! Soon, one of my clients was asking me to upcycle her lovely white linen dress. Upcycling beloved items of clothing to cover up stains, or defects, or just to glamour them up, gives a new life to quality items of clothing made of natural fibres. I have a small stock of organic cotton t-shirts and linen scarves to create some of the shown products, but you are welcome to send me your item to upcycle. A selection previous orders, all pictures are linked to the relevant item

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Kusaki Kobo, Dr Kasuki Yamazaki

Part 2 of a 3 parts training trip to Japan by Tinctoria Dr Kasuki Yamazaki is a natural dye Professor at the Art and Design University in Yamagata. He has dedicated his life to the research and teaching of ancient Japan’s traditional colour aesthetics and dye techniques. This was a four days intensive training, where we unlearned just about everything we new about mordants to learn Kusakizome – or natural dyes the traditional Japanese way – with Kasukisan, his son Hirokisan and the magical team of fairies who made this very dense class possible in such a short time frame. We used the plants which have been part of Japan’s elite clothing for centuries. Thanks to Kasukisan’s in depth knowledge of both practise, botanic and chemistry, we where able…

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Beni Itajime, Mrs Yoshimura

Beni Itajime

Part 1 of a 3 parts training trip to Japan by Tinctoria We where very fortunate to discover and practise a near extinct reserve technique: Beni Itajime. While the «classic» Itajime technique using two wood block to apply pressure on fabric to create a resist while dyeing is a very common technique nowadays, it’s much more sophisticated version using engraved wood blocks would have all but disappeared without Mrs Yoshimura’s determination and vision. Her family had been the unique depositary of that exclusive technique outside of Kyoto, and she made sure to keep it alive and share her knowledge. She toured us through her treasured collection of kimonos with Beni Itajime linings. It could sound quite odd to us westerners to keep such a fabulous fabric where the…

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Sur la route du Tokaido @ Musée Guimet

Sur la route du Tokaido, Musee Guimet

It seems as I haven’ really come back from Japan… keep looking for indigo everywhere! On a busy day in paris, I managed to stop at the Musee Guimet to catch an exhibition showcasing a flurry of etchings from the famed Tokaido route. The Tokaido is the east and most famous of the Gokaido routes. It started to develop from the Kamakura (1185-1333) period, but reached a peak during the Edo (1603-1868) period. We have heard about it many times during our Japanese workshops as it widely participated to the flourishing indigo economy on that part of the island. Indigo is indeed very present in the etchings, in the landscapes but also on the clothes which are a fascinating sight if you have the slightest interest in indigo reserve techniques! The…

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